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Surfing is more than a hobby. It is a passion and a way of life.
Although you have control of yourself as you stand atop your board, ultimately it is the wave, and nature, that controls you. In order to accept that you are nothing more than a passenger controlled by a force of nature means that you must first respect nature, the water, and the waves. Without that respect, surfing will never touch your soul.
Thrill seekers and adrenaline junkies will try surfing, to feel the power and energy of the waves they ride. Soon however, they will feel the need to move on to something else, a newer and bigger thrill. For those to who surfing has become a passion, simply sitting on your surf board, rising and dropping as the waves pass beneath you, will bring a serenity that is found nowhere else. Surfing is more than just catching the biggest wave, or riding the inside of a tube, it is a partnership with nature.
No matter how long you surf, or how much you practice, every wave is different and each one provides you with as much joy as you are willing to accept. Surf each wave as if it were your first, and your last, and the joy that surfing brings to you will never fade.
Although many do compete (as amateurs and as professionals) at its core, surfing is not about competition, it is about serenity and acceptance.
Accept the power of the wave to move you at will.
Respect the force of nature to create the waves that propel you.
It is when you disrespect it, or take the waves for granted that you will get wiped out.
It is the combination of the power of nature, the simplicity of the surf board and the passion of the surfer, that makes surfing a way of life for so many.